EFFECT OF SEAMS ON DRAPE BEHAVIOUR OF COTTON WOVEN FABRICS

Nguyen Thi Le

Nguyen Thi Le Hung Yen University of Technology and Education

Keywords: Drape coefficient, Seam, Drape profile.

Abstract

Drape of fabric is one of the characteristics which influence significantly on the appearance quality of clothes. The structure of patterns and seams affect the drape behaviour of fabric. Investigating of the influence of seams to the drape behaviour of the fabric can improve apparel design and the selection of the structure, the direction of seams in accordance with the requirements of aesthetic quality as well as the shape of the garment. This article presents the effect of three seams on the drape behaviour of five medium cotton woven fabrics. Experimental fabrics are given diametral seams. Warp, weft and 45o bias seams were sewn. Three types of seams, which content 301, 401 and 504 stitches, were applied to observe the effect of seams on the drape of fabrics. Drape properties of initial and seamed fabrics were determined using ADS-LAST drapemeter according to BS 5058: 1973 standard. The experimental results indicate that drape profile and number of folds are changed while changing type and direction of seams. There is a significant proportional linear correlation between drape coefficients of seamed and initial fabrics.

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